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The Ultimate San Francisco Travel Guide: Planning Tips From A Former Local
In This Post
San Francisco is undeniably a great travel destination, but it is quite big and there is a lot to see. From my six month student exchange in this city, I’ve compiled my best SF travel tips, including: Tips for travel into San Francisco, where and how to stay, packing essentials (from someone who learned the hard way), the ins and outs of SF transport, and my top must sees and do’s!
Let’s get into it.
Getting There
While there are many ways to get to SF depending on where you’re coming from, for this destination it may be worth the plane fare to fly right into SFO. Let me break it down.
Train: There are certain Amtrak trains that go near SF, but most of them stop in Oakland and not in San Francisco. While this option may be cheaper than flying in, it can take an additional 40 minutes to drive into SF from Oakland, and upwards of 1.5 hours by public transit. Though this option is sometimes cheaper than flying (depending on where you’re coming from), keep in mind that it may involve some shlepping!
Bus: On the subject of shlepping, buses are also an option. Greyhound has routes in and out of SF to many states, including some Canadian provinces (though if you’re coming in internationally, read on). I’ve never personally taken a Greyhound bus into SF, but if my experience with busing it to NYC from MTL in roughly 9 hours is any indication, I cannot fathom being on one of these buses for several days. If you’re coming from the western/central states, busing it into SF may not be a terrible idea, as they are much cheaper than flying!
Plane: There are technically two airports in the SF Bay area, San Francisco International and Oakland International. SFO is in the southern part of SF but fairly easily accessible via the BART trains (Bay Area Rapid Transit – details coming up). SFO is definitely the better option in my opinion, especially if you’re coming into SF internationally.
Packing Essentials
If you’re an avid traveller, you probably have your packing list down for most types of city travel, though as someone who made some serious packing mistakes on her first trip to SF, heed my warning and read on!
Picture it: Montreal 2011, taking the leap on my first California trip, my cutest floral rompers, sun dresses, jean shorts and sandals in tow. It’s California, right? Sun, beaches and flip flops! Right…? Wrong. I knew I had made a terrible mistake when we arrived in the city and all the locals were wearing jackets, jeans, and close toe’d shoes. Needless to say, I was very chilly the entire week, and vowed that if I ever went back, I would leave my light fabric favourites at home in favour of some more sensible options. When I did go back, spent 6 months on a student exchange, I was much more sensible.
With that being said, as a general rule in SF, plan to pack for many different climates. This may sound dramatic, but a day in SF can quickly go from sunny and warm, to bitter and cold in a matter of hours, and that wind is no joke.
See also: Affordable Packing Essentials for City Travel
My number one tip: layers. And lots of them.
Light Sweater at all times: Make sure you pack something that you can tie around your waste or pack in a small bag during the warmer hours and throw on when the sun goes down, or when the wind gets a extra chilly. If you don’t want to shell out an unnecessary $50 for an emergency San Francisco souvenir hoodie, a safety sweater is a must.
Wind-breaker or light rain jacket: Between the wind, the fog, and unexpected rain showers, having a windproof/waterproof layer is a must in keeping you comfortable and dry in this city. Definitely keep an eye on the weather while you’re in SF, and be ready to grab an extra outer layer if needed.
Comfortable walking shoes: While public transportation runs throughout the city, it’s often better to walk to and from certain sights (more on this later!). You really get the most of the city this way, so make sure you have some good closed toe shoes to keep your feet alive during the across-town and uphill walks you’ll likely take daily in SF. I love my Sketchers, and bring them everywhere with me when I travel. A good pair of gel insoles is always a good idea, as well!
A hat and sunglasses: What?! Wasn’t I just saying how chilly this city is? Yes. However, Californian sun is Californian sun, and even when it’s cloudy or windy, the sun is still a danger to us. You may not feel it, but you can defs get a sunburn in SF without ever even feeling too hot.
A refillable water bottle: With all the walking you’ll inevitably doing in this city (not to mention all the hills), you’re going to need to stay hydrated. While there are many places to buy beverages throughout the city, it’s important that we try to stay as eco-friendly and as plastic free as possible, so a refillable water bottle is a must in my books!
See also: 5 Easy Ways To Be Eco Friendly When You Travel
How and Where to Stay
So here’s the deal. Much like many metropolitan cities, San Francisco is just brimming with places to stay. However, in my books, how you stay is just as important as where you stay. This is really dependant on your style and budget as a traveler, and is something you should definitely break down before impulsively booking that Fisherman’s Wharf hotel or that Airbnb in the Sunset district.
Let’s start off with the how:
Hotels
Depending on the city and what is generally available in terms of lodging, Hotels are the first choice for most folks. Easy to book, (usually) clean rooms, amenities, free parking. San Francisco is a strong cultural city, and has a lot of cute and historical hotels along with the familiar chain hotels you’ll find in most North American cities.
While this is convenient for families or nervous travellers who want to stay somewhere they know, most hotels will be in the high traffic/touristy areas. These include Fisherman’s Wharf, Union Square/Downtown and Russian Hill – where the famed Lombard Street is located. While these are top tourist areas and walking distance to a lot of attractions, they are also very expensive, not to mention extremely busy and crowded, so definitely keep that in mind if you’re looking for Hotels in SF.
Bottom line: Hotels are great for privacy and knowing what you’re getting (for the most part). You may be limited in terms of location, and they are the most costly stays, but can be a good fit for families with kids or for a romantic getaway.
Hostels
As a budget traveller, I love a good Hostel. Hostels are a great fit if you’re looking for an affordable stay, or are looking to make connections with other travellers. As most hostels have shared rooms for a cheaper rates, you have to be willing to compromise on privacy. Some hostels do have private rooms for a bit of a higher rate, but most usually have shared bathrooms, anyways. In terms of location, you’re going to be in the same situation as with Hotel stays. Most hostels are located in the busy areas for convenience, so I’d be mindful of that.
Bottom line: Hostels are the most affordable option and give you the opportunity to meet fellow travellers, but comes at a cost of privacy and may limit location in this case.
Airbnb
For anyone who’s never used Airbnb to book a stay, Airbnb is a community where people can rent their homes to travellers on a short or long term basis. From houses and apartments, to tree houses and castles, you can rent almost any type of lodging with Airbnb. Since they have hosts all over the world, it’s a really great option for most travellers, and personally my favourite way to stay when I travel.
What’s great about Airbnb is that you’re renting peoples homes, so they can technically be located anywhere in any given destination. In San Francisco, Airbnb has listings all over the city, so you can really stay in any neighbourhood.
Bottom line: Renting entire apartments or houses can be expensive, but not a whole lot more expensive than a hotel and usually gives you a lot more space and amenities. Plus, staying with a local host (whether they are present during your stay or not) gives you an advantage if you have questions about the city.
Now let’s get into the where:
Now that you’ve figured out the best type of stay for you, it’s time to figure out where you should stay in SF. Since every neighbourhood in SF has it’s own personality, it’s important to narrow down what the best place is for you to stay. I’m going to start out with the places in SF that you maybe shouldn’t stay, and one you should avoid at all costs!
Neighbourhoods to avoid:
Downtown/Union Square
While the idea of staying downtown in any city sounds glamorous and super convenient, lemme tell ya, that’s not totally the case in SF. Downtown and Union Square do have some nice shops and are pretty easy to get to, but contrary to popular belief, it’s really not the best place to stay. It’s a rougher neighbourhood in spots, and it’s a high foot-traffic area, so it can be quite costly.
Bottom line: If you really want to stay downtown, stay away from Union Square and the Tenderloin (check ya maps!) and be ready to pay a pretty penny.
Inner/Outer Sunset District
So full disclosure, I’m a bit torn on this one. I love Sunset. Just the name of it sounds so lovely and peaceful, and it is. Sunset has some really pretty streets with colourful, historical houses (hello, classic SF), is pretty quiet and has some cute independent shops and cafes if you want to take a quiet neighbourhood stroll.
It’s pretty residential, so you’ll find mostly Airbnbs in this area, which is great if you want to stay away from the hustle and bustle of the city…however! You’re really far away from the hustle and bustle of the city. There is public transportation in Sunset, but it’s limited and seemingly takes forever to get anywhere. But ya know, it’s close to Ocean Beach…so…that long transit ride may be worth it.
Bottom line: Sunset is residential, so you’d likely be staying in an Airbnb in this quiet neighbourhood. Public transport isn’t the most available in this area, so it may take you a while to get anywhere if you’re not driving.
Fisherman’s Wharf
So here’s the deal. I love a good waterfront. Anything close to a body of water is my happy place, but let me TELL YA. I would never stay near Fisherman’s Wharf. I believe there is some value in experiencing the most touristy attractions when you travel, but you can do a couple of hours here and then be very glad to be going back to your home away from home in another neighbourhood.
First things first, this area is going to be crazy expensive. It’s the most touristy area in SF and it’s got the prices to match, not to mention that it’s a pickpocket’s dream. I totally understand wanting to stay close by if you have kids and want to do the tourist thing, but please please heed my warning and stay elsewhere, or at least seriously weigh your options. Fisherman’s Wharf is really easy to get to (you can take Muni metros or buses, and there are shuttles that bring you directly to pier 39 from downtown), so you really don’t need to make this busy area your home while you’re in SF.
Bottom Line: It’s going to be the most expensive area for hotels, is always crowded, and not something you’re going to want to deal with every single day you’re in SF. My advice is to find a neighbourhood that is going to allow you to relax once you get back from a day of sightseeing, because trust me, Fisherman’s Wharf doesn’t know the meaning of the word.
Neighbourhoods I Love and Recommend:
The Castro
If you’re planning a trip to SF, whether you stay here or not, you absolutely MUST visit the Castro district at the very least. It’s incredibly vibrant and lively, and there’s a lot to see and do. I would personally stay here if you’re looking for a hoppin neighbourhood where you can go to brunch, spend your day sitting in a beautiful park, walking around and taking in the colours of this flamboyant neighbourhood, and hit up a cool bar or club at night. It’s totally not necessary to be a party person to stay in the Castro, but party and fun are definitely in this neighbourhood’s personality, so keep that in mind if you’re considering staying here!
Bottom line: I absolutely LOVE the Castro and would highly recommend snagging an Airbnb in this neighbourhood if you’re looking to stay somewhere central and have an affinity for a city lifestyle.
Mission
Speaking of a party lifestyle, the Mission district also boasts some popular clubs, not to mention some great eats. I won’t lie to y’all. The reason for my endorsement of the Mission district mainly comes from all the taquerias and great local restaurants. I had the best burrito of my life in this neighbourhood (keep readin for more burrito love) and would recommend finding an Airbnb in this area. If you’re considering this neighbourhood, try to avoid staying on Mission or Valencia as they are the busiest and will likely be the most expensive in this area.
Bottom line: The Mission district is definitely a bustling neighbourhood, with good restaurants, bars, clubs, walking distance to a lot of lovely areas. You can walk to the Castro, Haight-Ashbury and Noe Valley (anywhere really, if you’re a champion walker) and though distances will obviously vary, it’s so worth it to walk around this city and take it in.
Ps. If you can find an affordable stay close to Mission Dolores Park, DO IT. This is one of my top 10 things to see in SF.
Marina district
Do you remember me saying that I love a good waterfront? Well, it’s the truth, and the Marina district is one of my favourite areas in the city. Apart from the waterfront view, this neighbourhood has beautiful homes and great leisurely walk potential, not to mention its close proximity to Presidio Park. It will be on the more expensive side, and is farther away from the centre of the city, so do keep that in mind. In terms of accommodation, you won’t likely find any hostels or hotels in this area (apart from those on Lombard street, which are going to be very expensive), but there are a few Airbnb rentals in this area worth looking into.
Bottom line: The Marina District is one of the more quiet neighbourhoods (if you’re close to the water – stay away from Lombard street), and is quite a lovely area. Beautiful houses, a great waterfront view and in close proximity to the Presidio. It will be on the more expensive side, not to mention farther away from the city centre, and you’ll likely only have Airbnb or other vacation rentals as accommodation options, but she is PRETTY.
Haight-Ashbury
Haight-Ashbury, in my opinion is one of the most interesting neighbourhoods in San Francisco. It has a hippie, vintage, artistic vibe that I, personally, love, and it is home to some great local cafe’s, bookstores, and restaurants. There are a few hotels ($$$), but you’ll mostly find Airbnb rentals in this area. It’s a great place to walk around and take in the sights, and is within walking distance of a lot of other great neighbourhoods. If you can find something in your budget, I’d highly recommend this area if you’re an artsy person, or if you are looking for a different kind of neighbourhood to stay in.
Bottom line: Haight-Ashbury is a fun, artsy, type of neighbourhood that boasts great local cafes, restaurants, bookstores. If you want to stay at a hotel, you’ll likely pay a little more than if you were open to looking at Airbnbs in the area. It’s got a lot to see, especially if you like to shop and take in local sights, and is within walking distance to many other vibrant neighbourhoods.
Getting Around
As one of the great metropolitan cities of the USA, getting around San Francisco without a car is totally do-able, and pretty simple to navigate! The best ways to get around SF include the Muni system, BART, ride-share services like Uber and Lyft, Cable Cars, and of course, your own two feet.
Muni:
Muni is the municipal public transit system in SF and stretches across all corners of the city. Muni is comprised of regular street buses, as well as under and above ground metro cars, and run throughout the day (there are some special night buses as well).
If you plan on taking public transportation in this city, you’re going to want to get yourself a Clipper Card. The Clipper Card can load all SF transit system tickets, and the fares are cheaper and much easier than paying cash for a trip. You can buy a Clipper Card from Muni ticket machines located in the city’s metro stations, Walgreens (which take over seemingly every SF corner), some Whole Foods and other various locations around the city. The cost of the card is $3.00, but you can reload it as many times as you need, either at the retail location or on the Muni app MuniMobile (also a good idea to download the Muni schedule app Muni Watch Transit App so you can track the buses/trams in real time)!
Each ride is $2.50 if you buy the Clipper Card, but if you’re staying in SF for 3 days or a week, you can purchase Muni visitor passes. Prices vary, but most of the visitor passes include Cable Car rides, which are about $7.00 on their own, so the passes are well worth it. Check out the fare options on the SFMTA Website here, and keep in mind that fares vary depending on where you purchase them (don’t worry, the Muni website has all of this laid out 🙂 )!
BART:
BART is the Bay Area Rapid Transit system. It runs through the city as well, and extends to the rest of the Bay area including, but not limited to, Oakland and Daly City.
BART is the system you’ll take if you’re flying into either SFO or OAK, as the trains go right to both airports and takes you into the city. While the BART mapping system is pretty easy to follow, the prices can be a bit confusing. If you know you’re going to be taking the BART train, it’s a good idea to put some extra cash on your Clipper Card at the BART station. You can use a fare calculator to figure out how much your specific trip will cost, and you can load that amount onto the card. Keep in mind that the way BART fares work are a little different than Muni and most transit systems. The card is validated once you enter the train and once you exit, but the amount on your card is deducted once you exit the destination station. This way, the system knows where you started and ended your trip and it is able to calculate the fare based on the duration and destination.
BART is really worth it if you need to go to the outskirts of the city, and while it is much more comfortable than Muni buses or metros, they don’t run as often and can be bit more pricey. I’d definitely recommend weighing your options! You can get more information about fares and schedules on the BART website.
Must Sees and Do’s
Walk through The Castro and Mission Neighbourhoods
Castro:
Arguably the most vibrant neighbourhood in SF, the Castro is a great area for spending the afternoon walking around and taking in. It boasts beautiful SF homes, the historical Castro Theatre, cute local cafes and restaurants, and great parks. If you love a good brunch, the Castro offers a few really great places, plus most offer bottomless mimosas. I’d highly recommend Kitchen Story for your brunching needs. They’re located on 16th St and Sanchez, a few short blocks from the Castro underground Muni stop.
Mission:
The Mission district is right next to the Castro, and is a great spot for trying trendy restaurants, local cafes, and independent shops. The Mission is also home to many taquerias, and let me tell ya, there are many a tasty burrito and tacos here that are worth your attention. An honorable mention goes to Taqueria Cancún, located on Mission Street in between 18th and 19th street. I had one of the best burritos of my life at Taqueria Cancún, so I highly recommend stopping here for a quick bite. Check out my 7 Not-To-Be-Missed San Francisco Eats for more yummy recos!
Mission Dolores Park
Dolores Park is definitely the city’s most popular park, and for good reason. It’s located on the cusp of the Castro and the Mission district, and is a local “watering hole” for the city’s young adult population. With this in mind, you can also expect to see people from all walks of life here participating in activities from dancing to picnicking with friends, even indulging in an afternoon nap! Dolores park is located on a hill, and if you venture up to the top you’ll get a great view of the city, and a beautiful sunset shot if you stay until dusk – which I’d highly recommend.
For more great views in SF, see my Guide to the Best Views in San Francisco!
Tip: If you’re planning on spending an afternoon/evening in the park (highly recommended), there are plenty of takeout restaurants and “prêt-a-manger” places in the area for a quick lunch or early dinner to eat in the park.
Walk across the Golden Gate Bridge
If you’re looking for great views of the Bay Area and are up for a solid walk, taking a walk across the Golden Gate Bridge is a must. Its beauty significantly distracts from the time it takes to walk across the bridge (about 40 minutes if you don’t stop for pictures- which you will). The walk starts from the Golden Gate Bridge Welcome Centre, which you can get to by bus or by walking through the Presidio. If you’re going to walk through the Presidio Park (which is a beauty on its own, not to mention boasts the ever delicious Off The Grid food truck market), just make sure you’re following signs for the GG Bridge, as the paths twist and turn and can be a bit confusing.
Tip: Don’t wear a hat unless it’s really tied tight, and pick your moments to take out your phone or camera. The regular SF winds will be particularly strong here and you wouldn’t want to lose anything to the wind gods. I’ve seen people lose phones over the side because of the wind – so be careful!
Embarcadero/Ferry Building
Have I mentioned that I love a good waterfront? During my 6 month exchange in SF, I spent many a day walking up and down the Embarcadero, taking in the water view and people watching. The Ferry building, located along the Embarcadero has many local vendors – I’m talking wine, cheese, fruits and vegetables, books, art, baked goods, the works, and has great views of the bay if you walk through to the back of the building. It can be a bit busy, but I honestly love this area so much, so I just had to include it.
The Painted Ladies
If you want to see the best of SF’s classic victorian houses, checking out Alamo Square and The Painted Ladies is a must. The houses are beautiful, and you can sit in Alamo Square park and picnic with a great view. This area in general has really interesting and beautiful painted homes, so it’s worth it to take a walk around as well.
Tip: If you’re visiting Haight-Ashbury or the Castro and want to take a nice walk, head to Alamo square from either of these neighbourhoods. As I feel like I mentioned a hundred times, if you’re able, walking through San Francisco is the best way, hands down, to see all that is has to offer.
Lombard street
Speaking of a nice walk, Lombard Street, located in Russian Hill is one of the coolest streets you’ll probably see. Though Lombard street reaches from Coit Tower to the Golden Gate Park, the part you’re going to want to see, the squiggly bit is in between Leavenworth and Hyde. You can walk here from many neighbourhoods, or you can take a cable car, which drops you off right at the top of the street.
Tip: Keep in mind that this area in general is very steep, so unless you want to walk up those hills, I’d recommend making sure that you see Lombard from the top (Hyde St) and walk your way down towards the water.
Baker Beach
While there are many beaches in San Francisco, Baker Beach has a special place in my heart. You can either walk or take public transit to get to Baker Beach, though I’d recommend the transit option more so than walking in this case. This beach is one of the closest ones to the Golden Gate Bridge and has great views and photo-op potential, however be fairly warned: it is technically a “clothing optional” beach. The closer to the rocks and the bridge, the more folks you’ll see sunbathing in the nude, but if you’re free spirited and unbothered by this, I’d strongly suggest taking a trip to Baker Beach. If that kind of environment isn’t quite for you, you can always check out Ocean Beach as well. See my Easy Guide to San Francisco Beaches for the ins and outs of the many SF beaches!
Golden Gate Park
Ah, the famed Golden Gate park. While this park is beautiful, lush, and pretty enormous for a metropolitan park, and I’d recommend taking the time to experience it, I have some reservations. This park is huge, and can be overwhelming for first time visitors. It stretches from the Haight-Ashbury neighbourhood, all the way to Ocean Beach, and it can be tricky to decide what parts you want to see. The Haight-Ashbury end is home to the SF Botanical Garden, the Conservatory of Flowers (highly recommend!) and the California Academy of Sciences. The Ocean Beach side is less attraction based, and more nature based (including a Bison paddock!), so the choice of which side to see/start with will be up to you.
Alcatraz Tour and Angel Island
First things first, these two are vastly different from one another, but I wanted to group them together because the ferries for both of these activities depart from Fisherman’s Wharf, only a few piers away from each other. The Alcatraz tour is definitely one of the most touristy things to do in SF, but it’s worth it. The tour is a self-guided audio walking tour around the famed Alcatraz prison, and it really puts you right back in the prime of the prison. With first person narrated stories, sound effects, and visuals, in a word (or three), it’s very, very cool. Note: tickets for this tour usually sell out really far in advance, so I’d recommend booking your ticket as far in advance as possible!
Angel Island isn’t so much a tour as it is a ferry that takes you from Fisherman’s Wharf to Angel Island. I love a good nature walk, and Angel Island has many walking paths, one of which that brings you to the summit of the island and has great views of the bay area.
There is a public restrooms, a cafe and a restaurant on the island, but I’d recommend packing some snacks for yourself so you can have a picnic on either the grassy areas or one of the island’s beaches. Tickets for adults are $15.00, but they can only be purchased with cheque or cash at the ferry terminal. You can find more information about the ferry here!
Fisherman’s wharf
Annnnnddd last but not (totally) least, Fisherman’s Wharf. I won’t lie, Fisherman’s Wharf gets a lot of flack for being overly touristy, over priced, and over crowded, and over hyped. While I tend to agree, I also believe it’s worth it to make a stop here if you’re visiting San Francisco for the first time.
I’d like to make one thing clear: I do not tourist shame. Every traveller has their own way of travelling and has their own goals when visiting a certain destination, and I believe there is value in experiencing the more “touristy” areas at least once. Now, with that being said, caution is the keyword when visiting Fisherman’s wharf. Caution for your spending, your personal belongings (it’s a pickpocket’s dream), and your eardrums (those sea lions are relentless). There are lots of fun souvenir shops, kitschy restaurants, and activities here, and if you have kids – or if you love curated overstimulation from time to time, it’s a bayside wonderland. Things will definitely be more expensive, so it might be worth the time to plan your meals elsewhere and try not to spend your (entire) life savings on salt water taffy.
And there you have it! Feel free to leave a comment, subscribe to the Happy Place email list, and follow the socials below for more travel love and inspiration!
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Here are some other posts you might find helpful (and the ones linked throughout this post, in case you missed them):
11 Best (And Affordable) Must-Haves For City Travel
Guide To The Best Views In San Francisco
7 Not-To-Be-Missed San Francisco Eats